ROCKET R58 CINQUANTOTTO ESPRESSO MACHINE: BEAUTY AND A BEAST

I love the Rocket R58, and if you can handle its hefty price tag, I have no doubt you’ll feel the same way!

The Rocket Espresso R58 is a sleek, stylish, and spectacular way to bring café-quality espresso into your home. Admittedly, it’s not cheap. But having spent some time getting to know this machine, I feel like the value is there for the serious espresso enthusiast.

This review will cover my experience with the Rocket R58 – what I loved, what I loved a little less, and who I think will get their money’s worth from this prosumer espresso machine.

The Full Rocket Espresso R58 Review

The Rocket Espresso R58 (also called the R Cinquantotto as cinquantotto is 58 in Italian) is a sweet machine capable of delivering café-quality espresso in the comfort of your home. In fact, with large dual boilers, impressive steam pressure, and a quiet rotary pump, it’s equally suitable as a commercial machine for a small cafe. Keep reading to find out if it’s right for you.

How I Rated It

• Brewing Capacity
• User Friendliness
• Milk Frothing
• Build Quality
• Value For Money

4.2

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The R58 Has All The Bells And Whistles

Let’s start by going over this machine’s basic operating principles and what it all means. The R58 is a double boiler espresso machine. There are separate boilers for steaming milk and brewing coffee, allowing you to pull a shot and steam milk simultaneously without either influencing the other – a must for lovers of milk-based drinks. 

The latest edition of this machine offers independent PID temperature control of the 0.58 L brew boiler and 1.8 L steam boiler. Compared to a heat exchanger espresso machine or a double boiler with a pressure stat, a dual boiler with two PIDs offers more precise and accurate brew temperature and steam pressure (1). If you’re serious about lattes and cappuccinos, this espresso machine is as serious as you are.

What temperature is the boiler on a Rocket R58?

The machine comes from the factory with the espresso boiler internal temperature set to 106 ℃ (222 ℉), which Rocket advises equates to 95 ℃ (203 ℉) at the group. A handy chart in the User Manual shows the boiler-to-group temperature conversion, but I think it would have made more sense to just program that directly into the PID operating system. It would be easier to just set my extraction temperature directly.

Rotary Pump

The Rocket Espresso R58 uses a commercial-quality rotary pump, which provides a smoother water flow than lower-cost vibratory pumps and much quieter operation. Another perk of the rotary pump is that you can plumb the machine directly into a water line, a great benefit for heavy users who don’t want to refill the 2.5-liter reservoir constantly – and a key feature if you hope to use this machine in a commercial setting.

E61 Group

The front of the machine sports the classic E61 grouphead, an iconic Italian design that has been in use for over 60 years. It uses a thermosiphon system to keep hot water circulating through the group to maintain temperature stability.

With the E61, a manual brew lever starts and stops the shot. It also permits a low-pressure pre-infusion stage, which improves extraction (2).

Dual pressure gauges under the group allow you to monitor brew pressure during a shot and pressure in the steam boiler. These little windows into what’s happening while you make a drink are crucial for the most consistent and delicious results.

In short, the R58 is top-of-the-line. It has all the features and technology of the best prosumer espresso machines. 

Flow Control

The main thing that separates the R58 from the more expensive model, the R60V, is that it lacks an in-built flow control system (3). However, the rising popularity of pressure profiling means that it is now easy and affordable to install an aftermarket flow control valve to any E61 group if you’re so inclined.

Using The Rocket R58 Takes Some Practice

Previous versions of this machine may have scored lower in this category, but recent upgrades have definitely improved the user experience. That said, this is still a commercial-grade semi-automatic espresso machine, and there will be a learning curve. I pulled around 15 or 20 shots before I felt reasonably dialed in terms of my workflow and extraction parameters.

New Digital Interface

The biggest upgrade is the new touchscreen interface to change the boiler temperatures and access other settings and controls. Rocket refers to this as a “communication pod,” which is both cute and apt. The pod attaches to the side of the machine for easy access, but if you don’t plan to change your settings often, it can be removed to maintain a more traditional aesthetic.

One of my favorite updates is the programmable on/off function. This feature is available on almost every cheap coffee maker, yet it is strangely absent from the most expensive espresso machines. It is especially valuable on these big dual boiler machines because they can take upwards of 30 minutes to reach temperature stability. With the auto-on, you can go to bed at night confident that a hot and ready R58 will be waiting when you wake up. You can even set different warm-up times for different days of the week.

Another long-awaited new feature is the shot timer, located just above the power switch. I mention its location because you could easily miss it. It’s very subtle, with a silvery color that blends seamlessly with the stainless steel exterior. It’s only once you start a shot and the numbers illuminate that it becomes obvious. Along with the removable touchscreen display, this is another demonstration of Rocket’s commitment to adding function while maintaining form.

Cleaning And Maintenance Needs

Maintaining the Rocket R Cinquantotto is similar to other prosumer espresso machines, which is to say that it takes a bit of work. But if you keep up to date with cleaning and maintenance, you’ll be rewarded with a machine that lasts decades.

I definitely suggest sparing yourself some grief and using filtered water to avoid the build-up of scale, especially if you live in a region with hard water. The R58 has copper boilers, which is an excellent material from a performance perspective but is more prone to scale deposits than stainless steel. Descaling a big dual boiler like this is a task best left to professionals, and filtered water makes better-tasting espresso anyway. Win-win!

Other than that, stick to the manufacturer-recommended maintenance depending on frequency of use. To keep the group and shower screen clean, backflush with water at least once a week and with a cleaning solution less frequently. Never leave the dirty portafilter sitting in the machine after pulling a shot. 

Keep a microfiber cloth on hand to wipe the steam wand after frothing. Always give it a quick purge with steam before and after use to avoid any leftover milk in the plumbing.

Latte Lovers Rejoice: Tons Of Steam Pressure

The large 1.8 L steam boiler with PID temperature control means you can get tons of steam pressure if you want it – up to 2 bar. But unless you’re in a milk frothing race, I’d recommend keeping it in the 1.5 bar range to avoid splattering milk on the ceiling. The pressure gauge makes it easy to monitor steam pressure.

The double-wall steam wand is controlled by a knob, which is nice for easing the pressure on and off. Personally, I like the feeling of control afforded by a knob, but I know some users prefer the more instantaneous on/off of a joystick control. Many dealers will swap the knob for a joystick if you want.

Are Rocket Espresso Machines Reliable?

Build quality is something Rocket Espresso is known for. The quality of the craftsmanship is spectacular; the Rocket R58 is as much art as it is technology (4). The fit and finish are fantastic. I investigated my machine in detail upon unboxing, and I couldn’t find a loose screw or a seam or weld out of place. Even deep in the drip tray, a common locale for manufacturers to let things slide, everything was impeccable.

The update to PID temperature control from older pressure stats adds to the longevity of this model. Once upon a time, mechanical pressure stats were an early point of failure, but the solid-state PID is much more durable. The E61 group is another perk in the longevity department. Having been so well refined through six decades of use, it rarely falters. And when it does, it is easy to find spare parts and skilled technicians.

Where are Rocket coffee machines made?

Every Rocket espresso machine is handmade in Milan, Italy.

Powerful and Beautiful

A commitment to aesthetics has always been a hallmark of the Rocket brand (5). They have modernized their technology without modernizing their style. Hence the detachable communication pod and hidden shot timer. 

The exterior of the Rocket R58 is a beautiful mirror-finish stainless steel wrap. The steam wand control knob sports the iconic Rocket R that immediately identifies the premium Italian brand. Sadly (or not, depending on your taste), the R58 lacks the rocket booster-shaped feet that grace many other Rocket machines. Instead, the R58 has angular feet with a more modern feel.

It’s a good thing the R58 is so beautiful because it is not subtle. Like all dual boiler espresso makers, this is a big machine that is likely to be the focal point of your kitchen. With the portafilter and PID controller installed, it measures 17 inches wide by 17 inches tall by 22.75 inches deep. I wouldn’t plan on fitting it under your upper cupboards, especially if you hope to take advantage of the top cup warmer.

Should You Buy The Rocket R58?

The Rocket R58 is a spectacular espresso maker. I’m sure you’ve reached that conclusion if you’ve read this far. It’s one of the more impressive double-boiler machines I’ve tested for this site. It’s also one of the more expensive, at over $3000. So, is it worth it?

For a heavy home user with an equal love for espresso and milk-based specialty drinks, I think it’s worth the splurge. The build quality alone sets this machine ahead of more inexpensive competitors like Lelit. In my opinion, it’s similar to something like the ECM Synchronika, which is around the same price point, and I actually prefer the removable touchscreen interface and all-around gorgeous design of the Rocket.

Having said that, if you’re anything short of extremely excited about espresso, another machine might offer better value. I think to really get your money’s worth out of the R58, you need to be enamored by the whole craft of espresso, not just the flavor. You need to enjoy the experience of dialing in a perfect shot, mastering silky microfoam, and maintaining a piece of performance equipment.

Don’t Buy The Rocket R58 Espresso Machine If…

• You’re looking for something more affordable: If your budget doesn’t stretch over $3000, there are plenty of cheaper alternatives in the prosumer market. If you love the Rocket brand and aesthetic, check out their lower price heat-exchanger models, the Rocket Giotto Evolutione and Rocket Espresso Mozzafiatto. 
  
  If you’re set on a double boiler, the Lelit Bianca is unbeatable for its price, though it doesn’t quite have the same premium build as a Rocket.

• You need something more compact: The Rocket Appartamento is a heat exchange espresso machine with a small footprint and noteworthy style, featuring attractive circular side cutouts unique to this model. As the name suggests, it was built with apartment dwellers in mind, measuring less than 9” wide. 
  
  Not willing to sacrifice dual boilers? My favorite compact double-boiler is the Rancilio Silvia Pro X.

• You want something more user-friendly: You can always buy a super-automatic home espresso machine like a Jura if you want a cappuccino at the touch of a button. But if you want a slightly easier-to-use machine that still delivers cafe-quality espresso and prosumer-level build quality, take a look at the gorgeous automatic Bezzera Matrix DE.

The Verdict

The Rocket Espresso R Cinquantotto espresso machine is an impressive piece of brewing equipment that any kitchen would be proud to host – with the features you need to make café quality espresso at home. Sure, the price is high, but the value is higher. With dual PID-controlled boilers, a commercial-grade rotary pump, E61 group head, and a stunning design, the serious espresso enthusiast will have no regrets about bringing home the Rocket R58.

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